Jig Use and Instructions

Disclaimer: This is not a woodworking tutorial. You should be proficient in safely using all tools and materials before attempting to use this jig. These instructions are only to help you use the proper amount of material, saving you trips to the lumber store. 

Disclaimer: Wood strength varies greatly not only between species but within species as well. You should have an understanding of what makes for good structural wood. Any suggestions given are for estimating only. You are responsible for determining if the wood used is strong enough for your application. 

Tip: Use only strong, straight-grained wood. Avoid spalted, burl, and highly figured woods. 

Recommended wood thickness: For desks and small tables, 2” thick material is recommended. You may laminate two or more boards together to achieve this. For dining tables, I recommend 4” thick material. This will almost always be achieved through laminating two or more pieces. 

Tip: if you don’t own a jointer and planer (or you do and want to save time) you can purchase “S2S” lumber from a local supplier. This is lumber that is flat on two sides already. 

Lumber needed: 

Below are the rough dimensions of wood you will need to cut the legs from. There is some margin for error built in, but feel free to add some size to the dimensions to ensure you have a large enough piece. 

Wishbone legs:

Four pieces 4.5x20”

Two pieces 3x20.5”

Two pieces 3.5x14”

Cut one end of the 4.5x20” piece at 35 degrees (roughly, you don’t have to be exact). Do this for all four pieces. 

Next, using a tenon, domino, or dowels to add strength and line up your pieces, glue the mitered ends together. This will be the leg material used for the bottom portion of the jig. Make sure to let your adhesive fully cure before moving on. 

Wineglass legs:

Two pieces 4.25x28.5”

Two pieces 3.5x20.5”

Two pieces 4x22”

Trace each piece from your jig onto the corresponding wood pieces (don’t forget you need two of each!). Then use a bandsaw or potentially a jigsaw to cut as close to your line as possible without going over. 

Once your pieces are cut out, you will need to use a router table and flush cutting router bit to copy your template to the wood. I use permanent double-sided tape to adhere the jig to the wood. It is critical to get a proper bond here. You risk serious injury or death if your piece comes loose while routing. 


Once you have all your pieces routed out, you are ready to join them together. Using a domino, tenon, or dowels, line up your pieces, and fasten them together with the best adhesive for your application. I recommend leaving clamped overnight. 

For 2” thick legs, I recommend attaching a mounting plate. ½” baltic birch is very strong and affordable. You can glue and screw the mounting plate to your legs, then recess the mounting plate into your table for a totally hidden, flush mount. You could also use ¼” aluminum/steel plate or develop a unique mounting system that fits your project best. 

Tip: Make sure to account for seasonal wood movement. This can be done with slotted or oversized mounting holes. 

Tip: Use steel threaded inserts for attaching the legs to your tabletop. This will enable you to assemble and disassemble your top unlimited times. 

Finally, have fun with this! Make it your own. Anyone can buy steel legs from Etsy. Not everyone can have custom legs made from Bubinga, Wenge, or your favorite wood. Be sure to tag me on Instagram to be featured!